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Gallery: Completed Copen

Review: Aoshima TE37 Gravel

Tutorial: Lowering the Fujimi EK9

Affiliate Link to help

Aoshima Daihatsu Copen


  • Kapci automotive 2K primer
  • PPG original Lexus 9K5 orange
  • Kapci automotive 2K clear

Additional Parts:

  • Aoshima Rays-Volk Racing TE37 (Gravel) rims
  • ZoomOn ZR013 Stretch Tire Set
  • 0.4mm pins added to side mirrors and rear spoiler
  • New front spoiler made from the unused front bumper
  • Tamiya NSX seats and Fujimi steering wheel
  • HD and T2M seat belt accessories
  • ZP charcoal grey flocking applied to interior floor
  • Bigger Aluminium exhaust tips added
  • 0.4mm custom air valves added to the TE37 rims
  • Tamiya mesh to cover new bumpers openings
  • 0.4mm rod used for door key locks
  • New side indicators made from clear styrene
  • Fujimi Japanese license plate decals


  • Inner arches narrowed due to wider new wheels
  • Exhaust modified into a straight pipe
  • Molded mesh on both bumpers opened
  • Indicators on front bumper filled and smoothed
  • Side-skirts modified by removing the back side
  • Front headlights detailed with projector beams 

Click for more info

Aoshima Box. S-Package Ver.R no.98

All the pieces provided inside box

First thing I did was to test fit the ride height using the original rims and tires. It was great from Aoshima providing the little Copen 2 different height options: standard and lowered. I chose the latter, and was surprised to find it sits so low! That's one job I didn't have to do!

Then it was time to choose some rims and tires! The ugly originals were 15s, so I opted for a set of 16" TE37 Gravel by Aoshima. The tires supplied with the rims have a high profile, so I decided to use a set of stretch tires made by ZoomOn instead

Here's a comparison of the kit wheels with my new combination of Aoshima & ZoomOn

This is a quick look at how the new wheel set-up looks beneath the tiny Copen!

One problem I faced with the new set-up was that the Copen chassis accepts very narrow wheels, just like the kit ones. The new wheels were too wide so I had to cut out a part of them from the back side to make them narrower, but still slightly wider than the original!

Here's a closer look at the slice I had to cut off from the back side. I also had to sand down the middle part where the poly-cap attaches as it was longer than the original kit's wheels

To finish off, here's final comparison of the kit's vs new wheels. You can also notice how narrow the kit's wheels are, together with the new width after cutting the rear part off

Since the new wheels are wider, I have also sanded the inner arches wall to avoid the tires from touching with them. Rear arches show result after sanding, fronts are original

With all the work related to the new wheels complete, it was then time to start preparing the body. First off were both bumpers, where I cut out all the ugly original molded mesh. This will be replaced with more realistic mesh later on. The indicators on the front bumpers (marked with the red arrows above) were also filled for a smoother finish

I also didn't like the original side-skirts with that shark-fin like shape on the back. So I cut this out and smoothed the back side to make the overall shape of the side-skirts linear

The side mirrors and rear spoiler are a pain to attach once the body is sprayed, so to make this easier, I have added 0.4mm pins to them and also drilled the body accordingly

At this moment, I realized that once you install the bigger side-skirts, these would sit lower than the front bumper! I don't like this as I'm a believer that the front bumper should always sit slightly lower! So a solution was required. Above picture shows this

The solution? I hacked the original (non-used) front bumper and cut off its lower part! Then, I heavily modified it until it fit beneath the tuner front bumper... Solved!!

Then it was time to start preparing the interior parts for primer, where I decided to replace the standard seats and steering with Tamiya NSX seats (left ones) and a Fujimi steering

Finally, every part was attached to the sticks and airbrushed in automotive 2K primer

Next, I decided to continue working on the body where I decided to go for an Advan livery! So first colour to be airbrushed was red. This revealed some defects I had missed with the primer, so these were corrected (as seen above) and then body was re-airbrushed in red

With the red finished, I started masking the body using Tamiya tape to achieve the desired Advan livery. On the hood some minor defects were noted and these were corrected again

The Alclad black was then airbrushed and after an hour I removed all the masking tape, revealing the exact livery I had opted for!

To finish the body, several appropriate decals were attached and then every part was airbrushed in several layers of automotive 2K clear

While the 2K clear was drying off, I continued working on the interior where this was first airbrushed in semi-gloss black. Then, I began masking for the next colours to be applied

To make the instruments cluster more realistic, I usually apply a layer of PVA glue to simulate the perspex in front of the dials. This time, I used a gel which dries with UV light

No interior is complete without seat belts, so I sourced the above items! Photo Etch parts are from Hobby Design while black material is from Tuner Model Manufactory

Once all parts were airbrushed and flocking applied to the floor area, everything was ready to assemble the parts together and call the interior done, as can be seen below

With the interior ready, I continued working on the chassis where this together with most of its components were airbrused in satin black. The license plates were airbrushed yellow since the Copen is a Kei car and in Japan these type of cars have yellow plates

Once every part was airbrushed in its respective colour and detailed, the undercarriage was ready for its final assembly

When I assembled the exhaust, I didn't like the way it looked with the final silencer and small tips. So it was removed again and modified as seen above. The silencer was replaced with a straight pipe made from wire (as detailed in the Wires-Pipes Tutorial) and the tips modified to wider aluminium ones (made from the green electrical connections).

All that remained at this stage was to airbrush the new exhaust in Alclad chrome followed with some light-gold details and assemble everything together to call the chassis done

Then I also finished the wheels, with the rims airbrushed in white followed by 2K clear with blue lug nuts. I have also added 0.4mm custom air valves to be more realistic

Next on the list was the body, where this was sanded free from all orange peel and then polished using a rotary tool and a buffer, same as explained in the "Polishing" tutorial

With the polishing done, I then masked the body and airbrushed in satin black the window trims, rear license plate frame and the roof (interior side)

Earlier in the build, I had cut away all the fake meshes in the front and rear bumpers. These will be replaced with the mesh seen above, coming from previous Tamiya builds

When attaching the headlights, I noticed they looked too boring. Looking at real Copen headlights, I realized the projector lamp was missing. So I added these by using a piece of clear sprue, sanded round and inserted into the light. Left one is modified, right standard

The locks on both doors were drilled and then I've inserted a 0.4mm rod to make it look more realistic than just adding a spot of silver paint

Last update before the full final assembly! Earlier I had also sanded down the molded side indicators, so now I took a piece of clear styrene piece and made two new indicators. These look much more realistic than painted molded ones!

Finally, all remaining pieces were assembled to the body and the Copen called done!

For the complete set of finished pictures, head over to the Gallery section, or click here to be directed!

More info inside


Gallery: Completed Copen

Review: Aoshima TE37 Gravel

Tutorial: Lowering the Fujimi EK9

Affiliate Link to help

Fujimi Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII


  • Kapci 2K primer

  • ZP Mitsubishi Y01 Dandelion Yellow
  • Kapci 2K clear


  • Hobby Design HD02-0251 photo-etch set
  • Modified under body and suspensions to lower the Evo by almost 4mm
  • One-piece differential and drive shaft cut out and replaced with more realistic parts
  • New exhaust muffler, scratch-built from 2 different thickness of aluminium rods
  • Crazy Modeler Brembo decals on all 4 calipers and Enkei decals on quarter windows
  • Back of front seats filled with putty and styrene and harness holes opened
  • New b-pillars added to the interior tub for the front seat belts mounting points
  • Interior floor and parcel shelf covered with charcoal grey flocking
  • Scratch-built front, side and rear lips made from different thickness of styrene
  • Hobby Design HD04-0008 carbon fiber decal used on hood vent, lips and spoilers
  • Custom 0.4mm air valve attached to each Enkei rim

More info inside

Fujimi Box. Kit no: 18721

Pieces provided inside the box

This is the Hobby Design (HD02-0251) photo-etch set I'm going to use

The body has a big amount of mold marks and requires lots of sanding. Pictured are also the wheels included with this kit, a nice set of 18" Enkei NT-03s

Inside the kit was also a nice suprise.. a 2002 Tein Suspension Catalogue!

First thing I did was sand down the mold lines and deepen the panel lines. Then I assembled the chassis to see what the standard ride height looked like and was shocked to find it looked higher than a Pajero!!

This meant that the Evo needed serious lowering, so I began by sanding down all the inner arches of the body and chassis. Then I worked on the rear set-up where I separated the disc brakes from the shock absorbers and later attached the disc brakes directly to the arms at a higher position

This gave me the required height but now the wheels touched with the shock absorbers. So I cut out the top part where the absorbers slide into the chassis and moved them further to the inner side, as can be seen above

Once both top mounts were glue in place, the inner arches were filled with putty and smoothed down

Then it was off for the front set-up. First thing to do was to cut 3mm off the shock absorbers

This 3mm difference gave my the required drop, however the steering rod connecting both wheels was now touching with the chassis. So I opened the slot seen above to make way for it

Then I added 2 styrene spacers beneath the front arms to compensate for the smaller shock absorbers

Finally, all arches were re-inforced with styrene and a box was added to cover the steering rod opening

It was then time to test fit the body once again which revealed the exact ride height I was aiming for!

Next job was to detail the ugly chassis. Here is a look at how the original Fujimi underbody looked

First thing to do was to cut out the poorly detailed differential and drive shaft. Then the open hole was covered with styrene from the back side and filled with several layers of putty and sanded

The underbody was then airbrushed with a layer of primer to reveal any defects in the putty. Above are the new differential and drive shaft I shall be using. Both items come from the spares box!

The new parts were cut and re-arranged to make them the exact lenght required for the Evo. The tiny blue pieces are also from the spares box and will be used as bellow covers behind the rear disc brakes.

Last thing to do was to assemble the new set-up, which looks way better than Fujimi's version!

Finally, a new exhaust muffler was scratch built by a local friend from 2 different aluminium rods

Finally, a new exhaust muffler was scratch built by a local friend from 2 different aluminium rods

Then I added two new b-pillars from styrene so that I'll attach the front seat belts to later on

With the interior done, I then airbrushed all the interior and undercarriage pieces with 2K grey primer

The chassis was then airbrushed in the final colour: The original Mitsubishi Y01, Dandelion Yellow

After that the chassis was masked for the next colours, while all other parts were also airbrushed

After long hours of masking and airbrushing, all the chassis parts were finally ready for assembly. The chassis and all the parts were slightly weathered too

Here's the undercarriage fully assembled and completed

Brembo decals on both front and rear brake calipers are from Hobby Design

Intercooler was detailed to be more realistic with blue hoses and new pipes made from aluminium rod

With the chassis finished, I continued working on the interior where all parts were airbrushed in colour

The interior floor and parcel shelf were covered with grey flocking while front and rear seat belts were added

Finally, everything was assembled in place and here's the all finished interior

Next, I made a front lip, 2 side lips and 2 rear side lips from different thickness of styrene. These can be seen above attached beneath the masking tape, which is there to protect the body while sanding

Then, the body and all the remaining parts were airbrushed in 2K primer and later smoothed down. The parts that will be covered in carbon fiber decal were also airbrushed in semi-gloss black

The body, rear spoiler and side mirrors were then airbrushed in Zero Paints Y01 Mitsubishi Yellow colour

The lips and rear spoiler were covered in HD carbon decal and then airbrushed in 2K clear with the wheels

The body was then wet sanded using 2000 and 2500-grit paper to remove all the orange peel

Then, it was polished using Tamiya's 3-part polishing compounds applied using a rotary tool

Here's a closer look at all the parts that were covered in HD carbon fiber decal and then 2K cleared

The body was fully masked and then the front and back lights were airbrushed in Alclad chrome while the window trims, hood vents and roof strips were airbrushed in semi-gloss black

And here's the result once all the masking tape was removed!

Then I airbrushed Tamiya TS-71 smoke onto the rear windows and light clusters to make them tinted

And here's the finished wheels. These were airbrushed in a custom mix of gun metal grey and silver and finished with a layer of 2K clear. Then I added a custom 0.4mm air valve to each Enkei NT-03!

Then, after attaching the wheels to the chassis, I couldn't resist temporarily attaching the body to the chassis to see the final ride height my Evo 7 will have; something which I was very happy with!

Finally, all the remaining pieces were assembled to the body and the Evolution was finished!

For the complete set of finished pictures, head over to the Gallery section, or click here to be directed!

Click for information